Hike to Eat: Sunrise Adventures at Koko Head Trail & Koko Head Cafe

September 25, 2025

The Pre-Dawn Adventure

There's something magical about hiking in the dark that transforms an ordinary trail into an unforgettable adventure. That's exactly what we experienced when we set out from our Waikiki condo at 4:20 AM, armed with headlamps and determination, for our Koko Head conquest.

The Climb: One Railroad Tie at a Time

Pulling into Koko Head District Park at 4:45 AM, the silhouette of the infamous "Koko Head Stairs" loomed before us in the darkness. For those unfamiliar, this trail isn't your typical hiking path – it's over 1,000 railroad ties arranged in a steep climb that gains over 1,000 feet in elevation over just 0.7 miles. Yes, you read that right – it's basically a giant StairMaster in nature!

A unique feature of the trail that kept us motivated was its numbered concrete blocks, starting at 25 at the bottom and counting down to 1 at the top. These numbers became our milestones, each decreasing number a small victory that helped us track our progress. "Block 15!" we'd call out triumphantly, knowing we were making steady progress toward the summit.

Starting our ascent by headlamp created an intimate bubble of light, making each step feel more manageable. The beginning section lulls you into a false sense of security with its gradual incline. But don't be fooled – about a quarter of the way up, the real challenge begins. The middle section is where things get interesting. There's a notorious bridge-like section where the railroad ties hover about 10-15 feet above a gulch. In the dark, this part required extra caution. We took it one careful step at a time, though we saw fellow hikers crawling across on all fours – and there's absolutely no shame in playing it safe! Pro tip: some hikers choose to take the dirt path that runs parallel to this section if they're not comfortable with heights.

The final third is steep, with railroad ties spaced more widely apart, making it a challenge for shorter legs. My quads were working overtime, but the promise of sunrise kept us moving.

Sunrise Rewards

We reached the summit at 5:50 AM, joining a small group of early birds who had the same idea. The pre-dawn light was already painting the sky in soft purples and oranges. While the sun wouldn't officially rise until 6:27 AM, the changing colors over Hawaii Kai, Hanauma Bay, and the endless Pacific Ocean created a light show that made every step worth it.

The Descent: The Real Challenge

The descent proved to be another challenge entirely. The steep grade means your knees take a beating, and the loose gravel between the railroad ties demands constant attention. We took it slow, often turning sideways or even backwards on the steepest sections. If you have knee issues, bring hiking poles – you'll thank me later.

A Sweet Stop: Leonard's Malasadas

On our way to celebrate our summit success, we made an essential stop at Leonard's Bakery, located at the corner of Kapahulu Avenue and Charles Street. This iconic bakery, with its distinctive white and red striped awning, is a must-visit institution. We picked up a box containing all six flavors of their famous Portuguese malasadas – pristinely hot, sugary doughnuts without holes. The original sugar-coated, cinnamon sugar, li hing mui (sweet-sour plum powder), and filled varieties including custard, chocolate, and haupia (coconut) would be our well-earned dessert after our brunch.

The Victory Feast: Koko Head Cafe

Our main celebration venue was the famous Koko Head Cafe, where Chef Lee Anne Wong's creative brunch creations awaited us. This is what Hike to Eat is all about – earning those calories together and sharing a memorable meal after. The star of our order was the Koko Moco, a brilliant twist on the classic loco moco featuring a perfectly seared hamburger patty, crispy garlic rice, our choice of over-easy eggs (though sunny-side up is also an option), and mushroom gravy that would make any umami lover swoon. The Breakfast Bibimbap brought the perfect mix of vegetables, kim chee, and crispy garlic rice topped with a sunny-side-up egg and Korean chili sauce – a delicious fusion of breakfast and Korean traditions.

But the showstopper? The Cornflake French Toast – thick-cut local sweet bread crusted in crunchy cornflakes, topped with indulgent billionaire's bacon and a scoop of frosted flake gelato, all finished with a drizzle of creamy black pepper maple syrup. The contrast between the crispy cornflake coating and the custardy interior of the bread, combined with the sweet-savory play of the bacon and the unique frosted flake gelato, creates a breakfast dish that's both innovative and irresistibly delicious.

The Hike to Eat Philosophy

This is exactly what Hike to Eat embodies – combining the challenge of an early morning hike with the reward of an amazing meal. There's something special about sharing both the struggle and the celebration with others. Whether it's passing encouraging words on the trail or passing plates at brunch, these shared experiences create bonds and memories that last far longer than sore muscles.

Some might question why anyone would wake up at such an ungodly hour for a grueling hike. But as we sat there at Koko Head Cafe, satisfied from both our physical achievement and our culinary indulgence, with Leonard's malasadas waiting as our final sweet reward, we knew exactly why. This is living.